How do climbing nuts work reddit. Aid only nuts are set aside on a carabiner.

How do climbing nuts work reddit Like any piece of small pro, visual inspection is key to make sure everything has good contact and is in the right place in the crack. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Technically Honnold's free soloing is also free climbing, but so is most of what the average person thinks of when they think about climbing, including the other examples you I don’t have much experience with other nuts but I feel fine climbing above them when placed correctly. You can lead a lot with only nuts, then save up money and buy cams. I know it's not optimal to buy second hand pro, but unfortunately, much of the trad equipment I can find in Brazil are used. every area is different but that one fits a large majority of climbs. Initially, I was planning on using simple nuts and bolts but it occurred to me that assembly/disassembly could be much simpler (and avoid the possibility of lost nuts) if I built it with T-nuts where I would have used a regular nut previously. Good luck! Reply reply I climb at the gunks regularly and I have the DMM Peenuts (offset small-micro nuts), and place them regularly. Think of ball nut placements more like tiny cam placements rather than nut placements. The first locking mechanism is the preload (force) developed by torquing the nut. Use a really good deep jug on a steep roof to ensure the footholds are set correctly, and then swap out the jug for a pinch, or something. 5 and 5. See full list on climbing. I literally climbing every second/third day. 4 inch grid might be a bit much but 4-6"'s will be good. I also used a LaCrosse ball. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. Tricams are cool but only work well in certain climbing areas. Is it dangerous? If you have some climbing tape with you, wrap a bit around the wire cable of the stopper. You want to make sure that it is seating in there well. I spent so much energy placing the two nuts that I missed a few critical foot holds and fell. There’s a technique my old boss referred to as “lunchboxing” where you use a better hold to see if the move is possible, and then replace it with a worse hold. My questions are: how well do t-nuts survive repeated use? How likely are they to fall out? Ball nuts are a seldom used type of climbing gear which offer protection in thin cracks, filling the void where even the smallest cams are too big to fit. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. It will preserve the sling longer. AskEngineers is a forum for questions about the technologies, standards, and processes used to design & build these systems, as well as for questions about the engineering profession and its many disciplines. They are a pain to clean though, and I wish they came in the same colours ass wc/dmm since I already know those colours! If you're just starting then buy nuts. If the cam will slip, it’ll budge when you do that test. there's always a tipping point between cost, weight and strength. 13. Worked perfect to cover plenty of placement options and get me comfortable before going full trad. 95. I am very consistent with climbing because I love the sport. The rocks don't care if you show up late. Free climbing refers to the act of only using your hands and feet on the wall, solo refers to not having a partner. Offset nuts are considered more of a supplement, whereas standard ones are just that: standard. Generally, nuts need to be light enough that it's worth bringing 10-20 during a climb. 7). So sport, trad, top-roping, and bouldering are all forms of free climbing. Trying to master my gear placement though. The rocks don't complain when you don't want to do cracks anymore and want to do some face. I've only ever used them in outward flaring cracks. Both of which are super rad, but you're climbing on the gear sometimes, not the rock. I hung out with a professional guide in JTree for a bit who only had offsets for his climbing there, since the majority of cracks are flaring, water-made cracks. Was gonna use 2 slings to maintain contact as I climb, sort of leap frogging them, idk what thats called. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Honnold is famous for climbing free solo. Or side to side the spacing is 6" and top to bottom the spacing is 4". If that doesn't work either, hold your nut tool under the nut and hit it with a big hex. I keep larger nuts on the left, smaller nuts and smaller hexes on the right. Dry friction is a positive quality when you're climbing. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin 6 days ago · How much does a full rack of climbing nuts cost? A full rack of climbing nuts will cost around $120. If this doesn't work, tap it from below with your nut tool. After climbing everything goes on any loop and then organised the day after back into the correct loop. I load my rack onto my harness with biggest cams as far back as possible, and smaller moving forward. Buy nuts, slings and biners and start building your cam rack. But the self-locking add a second layer that is nothing more than increased friction. If you have a color scheme preference that’s probably good enough reason to go another way. Easy to pick up and carry. Believe it or not were ONE body so everything is connected. I saved them in a . Then just pin them at the side with a smaller screw so they don’t rotate. Reposting this higher, as I am seeing bad advice. I work on projects and am very patient with my progression. The difference between top roping, or gym climbing, and real climbing is that the protection usually is not waiting for you. Similarly with cams, cheaper and lighter is seen as better He didn’t deck but he nearly framed the nut that caught him after. Nuts are generally less reliable in diagonal cracks because they are not pulled directly into the constriction when weighted. I carry pink and red but rarely place them. I’m have destroyed this piece of wood and nothing seems to work. Hey folks, I have couple question regarding a home climbing wall and I'd like to know what you guys have done. The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. I use a modified D and due to the large size of the D it catches the nuts and lets you sort better. You can buy special washers to fit inside standard T-Nut bolt holes within climbing holds that allow them to take a screw. Selecting the Right Size Nut When choosing the size of nut to place in a crack, keep in mind that generally more contact between the nut and the rock equals a stronger placement. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . My question is, if I’ve used all my cams earlier on a climb. set of nuts. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. They don't need to go nuts, but if they take a minute to ask your coach for advice on what they can do to help you improve, it will reflect well on your prospects as an athlete. 11. Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. There are several varieties, but all rely on increased friction. Thanks! Ball nuts are a seldom used type of climbing gear which offer protection in thin cracks, filling the void where even the smallest cams are too big to fit. com Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. Black Diamond Offset Stoppers will work perfectly as a Grab a set of nuts to start and practice placement. This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. I finished the climb and my partner took about 20 minutes trying to get the nut out. as every situation that you'd whip on them on a single nut would normally catch you (lead fall) with 10 kN, you then can engineer the weight and cost savings down. Aid only nuts are set aside on a carabiner. One placement kills two pieces. We like to compliment the Black Diamond Stoppers with a set of offset nuts. Nuts work best in vertical constrictions, but they can also be placed in diagonal cracks. Got these from previous r/climbing threads. That being said, stacks like this were used in clean aid climbing in the 90s. Well there’s the usual wallnuts and hb offsets but I’ve recently become quite fond of metolius curve nuts, they seem to almost work like an offset nut, and are fairly intuitive to place (to me at least). For a small wall more T-Nuts is better. All nuts have this and it's quite effective (lug nuts almost never fall off). Engineers apply the knowledge of math & science to design and manufacture maintainable systems used to solve specific problems. They are comprised of two halves: one half is a paddle and the other is a flat ball which tracks up and down a central groove on the paddle when the trigger is pulled or released. Sometimes I do send my projects and sometimes I don't. Popular climbing routes, including state or federal routes, may have protection set by the park service or other climbers. They often fit nicely where other nuts wouldn't work. 2. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. 12. They do have a bigger range, work better in horizontals and work in funky spots. He even lost his nut tool when he accidentally unclipped it while getting the nut out. Then go for the cams. Common gear on the sport loop because it's probably what I'd be climbing first. doc file, I don't have the original links anymore: "Climb the mountain so you can see the world, not so the world can see you. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. WHY CLIMBING IS BETTER THAN SEX (a woman's perspective): The rock is always hard. Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. You do all the work to carry multiple pieces up a climb and then this type of stacking eats through your gear at a double time. Sport gear on one loop and trad on the other. I do stretch quite a bit even before the injury, so I kept stretching and seemed to alleviate some of the pain. I hate those! Open way too easy. I've had gear fall off my harness because they have that big hook in the nose and the wire parts of nuts work in there and fall out. Often, a little wiggle will unseat the nut, enabling it to be pushed up and out. I keep smaller nuts in one key, bigger nuts in another, smaller hexes on a third, bigger hexes on a fourth. Hello everyone! Recently i've started to buy my own trad rack, and I need some advice on buying second hand gear. " We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. A three-finger pocket isn't too big. Personally, I started with a set of BD nuts and a yellow and orange Metolius power cam. They aren't superior to nuts, they are just different. Depends where you'll be climbing. 5-3 C4 cam size. I climb very hard each session to the point where my tendons and arms are so sore and pumped by the end of the session. Set the nut with a yank so the ball will slide up the ramp. I do hate ovals for racking nuts, I think ovals increase the chance of dropping them. Using the LaCrosse ball on my neck, shoulder, and forearm helped alot! Climbing, yoga, and walking are my primary forms of exercise so I find that they all work really well together — yoga increases my mobility and helped me significantly decrease back pain, climbing has started to tone me up, and walking is just good for my overall health and is a requirement for my dog lol. . First point is, when you’re placing cams, don’t give them a short tug to test the placement, give a long continuous pull. Camp does make some of the best gear out there, especially for ice and alpine climbers. I'm drafting up plans for a home wall and I'm trying to figure out what kind of t-nuts and bolts people use (size-wise). To be removed from a crack, a nut will need to reverse the way it went in. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal cracks and place cams instead. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. I can't say I've fallen on one yet, but I think I've aided with them. There are forms of non-free climbing, like rope soloing and aid climbing. One of the best value for climbing nuts is the full set of Black Diamond Stoppers, which come in at $119. If it could be pulled out, try a better placement. I see numbers being thrown around and a common one being 3/8 of an inch for the t-nut size itself. In general tricams are much larger, more difficult to place and if badly placed can fall out quite easily. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. I do hate ovals for racking nuts, I think ovals increase the chance of dropping them. I personally view them as highly or even higher than BD and Petzl. I have checked out the gear placements on top rope (since it’s above my sport climbing highest grade) and I determined the best placements are a mixture of small cams, regular nuts, offsets, and a peenut. I also do aerial silks, so my injury happened from doing too much. (Prob irrelevant for one rappel) Also looks like you could have just clipped the top nut to the lower one with a biner, then rapped the lower one with a biner on the wire, saving the sling. Please help with solutions to get the bolt out of the t-nut as well as what I’m doing wrong that this keeps happening. In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. Pay attention to which way the nut would be pulled in the event of a fall. i. Sources are friends that work for gear manufacturers due to close to 2 decades in the climbing and retail gear industries: There are hard and fast rules for nylon in fact friends! zero use nylon is no good at the 10 year mark infrequent use is good with inspection 5 to 7 years I have a finger crack project that takes nuts really well but cams are a pain on it since the rock is irregular with big crystals. Trad climbing often involves crack climbing, which is a different style of climbing from face climbing. A lot of the options for cutting cost on a trad rack don't actually save you money, just delay you spending it. In contrast, free climbing just means climbing without aid, that is, without using gear (such as ascenders) to pull yourself up. haha true that, climbing with someone with DIY gear. You can see it HERE. The same with those “double ended nuts” with different sizes on each end of the same cable. My questions are: how well do t-nuts survive repeated use? How likely are they to fall out? Expanding my home woody, and as I install t-nuts, the bolt keeps getting stuck in the t-nut. Always pin a hold fixed in this manner, as the friction alone isn’t enough to stop rotation. The pink and smaller can be really hard to clean if welded in. If you have other suggestions I am open They don't need to go nuts, but if they take a minute to ask your coach for advice on what they can do to help you improve, it will reflect well on your prospects as an athlete. Whole set goes into the backpack as is unless I'm only doing one type of climbing that day. Get more nuts is my advice, and get comfortable placing them. offsets nuts are really nice to have For a small wall more T-Nuts is better. It's very expensive to replace those regular nuts with offset nuts, to replace those hexes with cams, to replace those standard camalots with ultralights or totems, etc. The nut I thought was good, popped out, and the nut I thought was bad, held. Nuts do not work well in cracks that flare outward or downward because there is not enough of a constriction to hold the piece in place. 10. e. Remember that climbers used literal nuts from a hardware store not very long ago. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. Some examples of potential questions could be; "How do I get stronger?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Prior Weekly Trad Climber Thread posts I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). You will end up spending money on gear you'll barely ever use. Over 30+ years of climbing I have dropped 3 nuts and they were racked on ovals, sorry I am bitter. It helps a lot in high vibration areas. eqnpzm toipk rqvft bnyq jifa wcxgy igst iureyk ttoiyh jcp